As a nipper, the very notion of setting foot in a Hong Kong-style “cha chaan teng (茶餐廳)” filled me with a peculiar kind of dread. With their unique blend of chaos and grease, these establishments painted a less-than-rosy picture of culinary finesse. Waiters, moving with the speed that would shame Olympic sprinters, would take your order in a flash, only to vanish into the throng of patrons and simmering pots. If the place were heaving, which it invariably was, they wouldn’t think twice about hurling a few choice words into the mix. And the water? I spent more time pondering if their fingers had taken a dip than I did actually drinking it. This wasn’t water for drinking, mind you, but for a cursory swipe at your utensils before you ate.
However, an amusing thing happened as the sands of time poured on. The very establishments I once scorned became the epitome of homesickness. The distinct tang of lemon tea, the creamy bliss of Hong Kong-style milk tea, the sweetness of a well-chilled Horlicks, the hearty embrace of a baked pork chop over rice, and the golden crunch of French toast — these became the artefacts of a cherished museum in my mind. Stepping into a familiar cha chaan teng now promises a trip down memory lane.
In the drapery of life’s noise, the clamour of the cha chaan teng has transformed from a cacophonous din to a soothing symphony, playing the soundtrack to my culinary indulgences. The once hurried waiters, now familiar figures, have become unsung heroes in this bustling cityscape, their hard work a testament to the resilient spirit of Hong Kong.
Now, every visit is not just a pursuit of taste but a journey back to a place that, since 2019, feels increasingly distant in more ways than one. It’s not just the miles; the monumental shifts have stretched the gap between then and now, leaving a city and its diaspora navigating new realities. In this evolving narrative, the humble cha chaan teng stands as a beacon of continuity, where memories are preserved and celebrated with every sip and bite. It’s a reminder that, despite everything, there remains a corner of the world where the past lingers on, deliciously unchanged.
